Surprisingly refined Ibiza
Ibiza's historic old town is a world away from the pumping clubs - perfect for a spot of culture and some fine cuisine.
Holidays to Ibiza have become hugely popular over the last 20 years. Bars, clubs, beaches and blazing sunshine - the Balearic Island is paradise for fun-seekers. But what if, after a few late nights on the ocean outpost the locals call Eivissa, you want a change of scene? Where do you go for peace in a place where nightlife is king?
The answer is Dalt Vila (Upper Town), the medieval citadel that sits at the highest point of the buzzing island capital Ibiza Town. A honey-coloured historic quarter, it is a powerful sight - particularly if you approach from the harbourside and look up at the still-impressive walls riding high on their rocky bluff. Just take your time over your ascent. The route to the top (ideally via Calle del Mar and Calle de Antoni Palau) is steep, and can be hard work if the summer temperature is soaring.
The best point of entry is the Portal de ses Taules. This huge, imposing main gateway was originally built to keep out enemies and invaders. Now it leads into a UNESCO World Heritage Site - an enclave of narrow streets, cobbled passageways and elegant squares, where quaint shops, small bars and cosy restaurants exist in a lazy siesta haze.
Once you've regained your breath, you may find yourself admiring the surrounding buildings. The pick is the cathedral that crowns the town. The peak of the hill has been a site of worship for over two millennia - in Roman times, it hosted a temple to Mercury, the messenger god. The current structure, the Catedral de Santa Maria, dates from the 13th century, and is a vast, towering church of the type Spain does so well.
You can also try a little art and history. The Museu d'Art Contemporani, by the main gate, does modern art with aplomb, while the Museu Arqueologic houses Phoenician, Roman and Arab artefacts from different stages of Ibiza's past. Of course, if you think an hour in a museum doesn't quite fit with an afternoon in the Balearics - after all, holidays in Ibiza are not renowned for involving paintings and archaeological findings - you may be enticed by the Dalt Vila's finest offering. One thing that holidays in Ibiza certainly are renowned for is the blue expanse of the Mediterranean - and the citadel walls provide incredible views of the ocean, twinkling below. Turn left at the main gate and take Calle de la Carrossa to access the ramparts.
Gawping at such scenery may give you an appetite. In which case, wander towards the Plaza de Vila, also near the gate, where dinner awaits - perhaps at El Olivo , the oldest restaurant in town, where you can sample modern Ibizan cuisine. Throw in a glass of wine at a candlelit table, and your visit to the Dalt Vila should add up to a glorious Ibiza holiday experience. And probably not the sort of glorious Ibiza holiday experience you were expecting when you boarded the plane.